The Colors of Dalarna

Dalarna, is the historical province in the central part of Sweden where the town of Mora, and the Folk School are located.  One of the first things you notice when traveling in this area is the distinctive red color of many of the houses and wooden buildings.  Iron pigment from the more than 1000 year-old Stora Kopparberg copper mine, located in the regional capital, Falun, was used to produce this particular hue which is known as “Falu Red.”  Author August Strindberg, is said to have written “The colours of our Swedish flag are blue and gold, but really they ought to be green and red: green for the deep green pine forest, and red for the humble red cottage glowing against its edge.”  The green pine forests look much like the coniferous forests further north in Minnesota.  It is easy to see why so many Scandinavian immigrants found the landscape of Minnesota familiar and chose to settle there.

Sadly, in the year 2010, one distinct difference between Minnesota and central Sweden is the color of the lakes.  Mora is positioned on the banks of the magnificent Lake Siljan.  Josh and I travel along side it when we walk into the central part of town.  It is the most amazing color of blue.  I know there are certain mineral deposits, etc. that contribute to this incredible blue color, but I also believe the much stricter environmental policies throughout Sweden have prevented the degradation caused by agricultural run-off that is so prevalent in the U.S.  No murky green algae ridden lakes here.  The lakes in Sweden look vibrant and healthy.

We spent much of yesterday in Färnäs, at our host, Anna Aronson’s home.  The definition of an “old house” varies greatly depending on geography.  In the U.S. an old house on the east coast might be 200 years old, while an old house on the west coast might be 60 years old.  In Färnäs, an old house could be 600+ years old.  There are buildings standing that were constructed in the 14^th Century.  The very old buildings have this wonderful “Lincoln log” type construction.  They have a layer of birch back at the base, and under the roof for extra insulation.  Most of the houses in the village  are painted the classic Falu Red.  The houses, barns and other historic buildings have being lovingly restored and re-purposed.  A number of barns have been made into workshops or guest cottages. 

 Anna's house

 

 

 

Kjell's barn

Just up the road from Anna’s house is one of two Maypoles located in Färnäs.  Next to the Dala horse, the Maypole is perhaps the most recognized symbol for Sweden. Amid much music and dancing, each village raises a Maypole at Midsummer, near the end of June, to welcome summer.

The Maypole by Anna's house

Anna’s son Isak is 11 year-old and speaks excellent English.  While Josh and Isak shared the common language of The Simpsons and X-Box, I visited with Anna and Kjell in the kitchen.  When I am remembering the colors of Dalarna, I will also remember the bright red of the apple-beet-ginger juice the Kjell prepared for us, and the lingonberry juice that Josh could not get enough of, and the food from the garden and homemade pizzas.  As Anna drove us back to campus for the evening I commented to her that my favorite thing in the world is to sit around the table and enjoy good food with friends and while is should not be a rarefied experience, in my everyday life it often is.   Anna concurred it was all too rare in her life also.  

Isak and Josh looking out the treehouse window

One of my favorite authors, Barbara Kingsolver, wrote  “The very least you can do in your life is to figure out what you hope for.  And the most you can do is to live inside that hope.”  I have one small piece of the first part figured out.  I want more leisurely time with good friends and good food.  How to embody that dream, I have not yet figured out.